Skeena Sojourn

It's now in the mainstream news: the Skeena system, in northwest BC, is seeing the most abundant returns of salmon in decades. One estimate puts the expected return at 4 million sockeye.

I was in Terrace recently and had a small taste of the euphoria in the north-west communites for whom salmon has been the centre of their lives, for centuries. 

I went out on the Skeena one day with my son and his partner. We watched a family harvesting for their traditional use. They set out a gill net, and within minutes the net was full.

Bringing the boat in, Skeena River

The name Skeena means "river of mist", reflecting the moist climate of north west BC which has led to rainforests of giant Sitka spruce and cedar. The Skeena is a powerful river; it evokes awe in those who stand beside it, or take to its waters. At the launch there's a sign warning boaters of unpredictable currents and other hazards for the boater. The river becomes tidal as it approaches the ocean. The complex interaction of river current and tidal forces makes for dangerous boating.

The Skeena towards Prince Rupert. The tidal influence is reflected in the sand bars. The water looks relatively peaceful here, but it can turn quickly as tides shift. We drove to Prince Rupert one day and saw 4 foot standing waves on our return journey.

I was in Terrace a few years ago when the Skeena was in flood, in June 2017. Here are a couple of images from that time. The sheer force of the river is evident.

Skeena River in flood, June 2017

Photo taken from the bridge deck in the previous image

Ken and I were gifted some salmon by a man staying in our hotel who was from Gingolx (Kincolith) in the Nass Valley. He worked security at one of the large construction sites in the area, and left his community for 14 days out, returning for 14 days, while he worked at a construction site near Terrace.

A gift of salmon from the Nass Valley

The importance of salmon in the Pacific Northwest is highlighted by the Skeena Salmon Arm Festival in Terrace. Started in 2018, it's a summer-long celebration of art and salmon. The festival's legacy is stunning. Even though it is only a few years old, downtown Terrace is becoming a vibrant art exhibit.

Here are a few images that I took one enjoyable morning wandering downtown Terrace streets. I was amazed by the wide variety of businesses and organizations participating in the murals project. Unfortunately I wasn't able to find all the artists' names. I did learn that many are indigenous.

Canada Post Building, Terrace

Canada Post building, Terrace

A mural by Casey Braam, wrapping around a 90 degree corner of a building. I saw Casey's name on a number of the murals. I liked how he focussed on the importance of riparian habitat in this image of a tree stump in the water.

Part of a mural with more muted colours - and more reflective of the reality of the river

This mural was primarily one single fish

Steelhead are depicted in this mural sponsored by the Steelhead Society of BC. Artist: Kari Morgan.

Another design which moves around a building corner. Artist: Casey Braam

The same design moves from the valley bottom, to the cliffs and mountain peaks. While salmon are prevalent in murals, other animals of the northwest appear in some murals, such as these mountain goats. Artist: Casey Braam

The artist of this mural chose to show the recycling of salmon, from their bones to new life which is fed by the nutrients from their carcasses.

The same mural, continued

One final two snapshots from another salmon mural, this one depicting the life cycle of the fish: 

Artists: Sarah Zimmerman and Jaimie Davis

Artists: Sarah Zimmerman and Jaimie Davis

Terrace murals are not limited to salmon; the displays I saw depicted the forests of the Pacific Northwest in vibrant colour and diverse images.

Here is a selection of other images:

Artist: R. Brown and Casey B. The mural continues, below.

Artist: R. Brown and Casey B.

Spruce grouse.

I liked the acknowledgement of the forest, and the cycle of life in the forest with fungi growing on old trees.

Carters Jewelry store mural

The Kermode bear. The City of Terrace uses this bear in its logo design.. Artist: Jorg Jung

A fabulous eagle stretching along a storefront. Artist: Michelle Stoney.

Two stylized versions of the Stellar's Jay

A colourful mural of wolves and a raven (further images follow). Artist: Leah Pipe

I will finish with one last set of images -- plants, rather than animals.

A mural by Metis artist Carly Nabess on the wall of the Terrace Women's Resource Centre, featuring native plants.

The art gallery had a Skeena Salmon Art show, so I continued my salmon themed morning checking that out. Here is the poster from the gallery show:

The work of two artists was used for the poster for the show -- Marie Christine Claveau (top) and L. McGregor (bottom)

I am sure there are many more murals to be discovered in Terrace. It seemed that every corner I turned, I would look behind me and see another stunning image on the back of a building. 

Kudos to all those involved in developing this wonderful homage to salmon!